DeSoto's Georgia Trails
DeSoto's Conquest Trail Thru Georgia Map
Written by Donald E. Sheppard
Drawings: Cheryl Lucente

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North FLORIDA, Southeast ALABAMA &
GEORGIA

Before Hernando de Soto continued westward from North Florida to Mobile Bay, which his sailors had located in order to supply him for his northward journey to what he believed was the Pacific Ocean, several survivors of his ill fated expedition reported at Marianna, Florida, that "... we had news of the interior... we were going in search of the land that Indian boy named Perico told us was on another sea (the Atlantic Ocean)." © UA Press

The DeSoto Chronicle"He (Perico) said that he was not from this land, but that he was from another one lying in the direction of the sunrise. Some time ago he had come here in order to visit other lands; his land was called Yupaha, and that a woman ruled it. Her town was of wonderful size, and she collected tribute from many of her neighboring Chiefs, some of whom gave her gold in abundance. He told how the gold was taken from the mines, melted and refined, just as if he had seen it done, or else the devil thought him. All among us who knew anything of this said it was impossible to give so good an account of it unless one had seen it; and all believed whatever he said was true when they saw the signs he made. On Wednesday, the 3rd of March, 1540 (mid-March on our Gregorian Calendar), the governor (Hernando de Soto) left (his camp at Marianna) in search of Yupaha, the Indian boy's land."

What follows is a compilation of the reports and testimonies, published in Europe four centuries ago, of the expedition's survivors...

Modern Conquest Images"Our ships headed for Cuba and we marched north, in order to see what the Indian boy told us about."

DeSoto ordered all his men "to provide themselves with food for a long journey through uninhabited land. Those of horse carried the corn on their horses and those of foot on their backs, because most of the captured Indians had died from the hard life they suffered, being naked and in chains all winter. After a march of four days (into Southeast Alabama), we came to a deep river (the Chattahoochee River) where a large raft was made ("the river was so broad that our best thrower never managed to throw a stone across it") and, because of the strong current, a chain cable (made from bondage chains, "strongly joined with S hooks of iron") was fastened on each side of the river. The raft was crossed over alongside the chain..." Four full days and part of another were spent rafting the army and its animals across this river, which was flooded by the Spring thaw. Today there's a highway bridge and railroad trestle spanning this huge river where DeSoto crossed it into today's Georgia. "... the horses were pulled across with ropes and tackle, which horses had dragged there..." from the ships at port in Panama City.     DeSoto's Northern Alabama Entry

The Chattahoochee River at DeSoto's Crossing Place

GEORGIA  CONQUEST  TRAILS

You can read the details of Georgia Conquest by Conquistadors,
written by DeSoto's ChroniclersBiedma,  Rangel,  Elvas  &  Inca

DESOTO'S TRAIL ON GOOGLE EARTH and CONQUEST CALENDARS

Georgia Conquest DeSotos Trail on Google Earth "On the other bank of the river we found a province, which is called Acapachiqui (Southwest Georgia), very abundant in food..." on Wednesday, March 10, 1540.

Lands below Blakely
"We saw some towns of the province, and others we could not because it was a land of very great swamps..." Sheffield Mills, Kirkland, Sawhatchee, Weaver Creeks and Porter Pond, all flooded by heavy rains.

Miles of Georgia Swamp "Here we found a difference in the houses of the Indians; we found them as caves below the ground, while up to here they were covered with palms and straw." © 1993, UA Press

"After crossing the river (the Chattahoochee), in a day and a half we reached a town called Capachiqui (Blakely, Ga.). On Friday, March 11, they saw the Indians had hidden in the woods. Next day, five Christians went to look for mortars which the Indians use for crushing corn. They went to some Indian houses near to the camp which were surrounded by a forest. Within the forest many Indians were walking about who came to spy on us. Five of them separated from the others and attacked our men. One of our men came running to the camp. They found one of our men dead and three badly wounded. The Indians fled through a swamp (Dry Creek) with a very dense wood around it where the horses could not enter."

Breastworks Branch - Dammed today beside Blakely's highway to Kolomoki
Kolomoki Mound State Park"... thus we passed on to sleep at another town farther on (Kolomoki Mound State Park). But we came upon a bad swamp next to town (Blakely) with a strong current, and before arriving (at Kolomoki) we crossed a large stretch of water (Breastworks Branch - dammed today beside the highway to Kolomoki - see above) that came to the saddle pads of the horses in such a manner that all the army was not able to finish crossing that day on account of it (today that highway is closed after heavy rains)... we left, on the sixteenth of March, and spent the night at White Spring (at the head of Spring Creek, west of Edison). This is a very beautiful spring, with a great abundance of good water and fish."

"We went onward and came upon two rivers..." Pachitla and Ichawaynochaway Creeks, just after heavy rains. "...where we made two bridges of pine trees, and the great current broke them, and we made another bridge of timbers crossed in a certain way, which a gentleman described, at which we all laughed, but it was true what he said; and having made the bridges in that way, we crossed very well. And on Monday the army finished crossing those rivers and they spent the night in a pine forest... And early on Tuesday (under the Full Moon and probably on a dawn horseback raid, as was DeSoto's habit when entering a large native settlement) they arrived at Toa (Toa-son today, Dawson, Georgia). We found a fair-sized town there, larger than any we had found up to there."

Vast Fields of Toa Today
A Proud Georgia Native and His Home"Beyond that place a difference was seen in the houses, for those behind were covered with hay and those of Toa were covered with canes in the manner of tile... Throughout these cold lands each of the Indians has his house for the winter plastered inside and out. They shut the very small door at night and build a fire inside the house so that it gets as hot as an oven, and stays so all night long.... Besides those houses they have others for summer with kitchens nearby where they build their fires and bake their bread. They have barbacoas in which they keep their corn, that is a house raised up on four posts and timbered like a loft and with a floor of cane... the houses of the lords are larger and have balconies in front, under which are cane seats resembling chairs... Native blankets are made of the inner bark of trees and some from a plant like daffodils, the Indian women cover themselves with these, wrapping one from the waist down and another over the shoulder with the right arm uncovered. The Indian men wear only one over the shoulders in the same way and have their privies covered with a truss of deerskin resembling the breech cloths formerly worn in Spain. The skins are well tanned...and of this they make shoes...."

"Wednesday, the twenty-forth of the month the Governor left from there at midnight (just after moonrise a few days after Full Moon), secretly, with up to forty horsemen... and they traveled all that day until the night, when he found a bad and deep crossing of water (Kinchafoonee Creek Swamp), and although it was night, they crossed it, and they walked this day twelve leagues..." 32 miles through Americas to Andersonville. The army departed Toa at a lesser marching rate that same day.

"...and the next day (the Thursday before Easter), in the morning, they arrived at the province of Chisi and crossed a branch of a large river (the Flint River, the provincial boundary, five miles northeast of Andersonville), very broad, some of it on foot, and even a good part of it swimming and attacked a town that was on an island in this river where they captured some people and found food... and because this place was dangerous, before the Indians came in canoes some went back the same way they had entered, but first they all had for lunch some hens of the land, which are called turkeys, and loins of venison that they found roasted on a barbacoa, which is like a grill..."

"...and the Indian boy Perico that they had brought from Apalache (above Panama City) as guide led them there. And they (with DeSoto) passed on to other towns (riding up the east bank of the Flint River), and at a bad crossing of a swamp (Beaver Creek), some horses drowned, because they were put in to swim with the saddles, while their owners crossed over on a beam which traversed the current of the water. And crossing this, Benito Fernandez, a Portuguese, fell from the wood beam and drowned."

"As soon as the governor had crossed the stream, he found a village called Achese (in Chisi/Ichisi/Achese Province at today's Montezuma) a short distance (a quarter-mile) on. Although the Indians had never heard of Christians they plunged into a river (the Flint River). A few Indians were seized, men and women, and one of them understood the Indian boy who was guiding us to Yupaha (Columbia, S.C.). On that account, DeSoto was more certain of what the boy said, for we had passed through lands having different languages, some of which the boy had not understood. The governor sent one of the Indians captured there to call the Chief who was on the other side of the river (at today's Oglethorpe)."

Montezuma and Oglethorpe Another of DeSoto's Chroniclers says, "This day (the Thursday before Easter, with Desoto's riders) we arrived at a town (Montezuma) where principal Indians came as messengers from Ichisi (Chisi/Ichisi/Achese, who ruled the land between the Flint and Oconee Rivers), and one of them asked the governor: "Who are you? What do you want? Where are you going?" And they brought presents of hides and blankets of the land, which were the first gifts as a signal of peace."

"the governor said... that he was the son of the sun (probably named that by natives on earlier conquests due to his habit of conducting surprise raids on native villages at dawn) and came from where it (the sun) dwelt and that he was going through that land and seeking the greatest lord and the richest province in it. The Chiefs (of Montezuma and Oglethorpe) said that a great lord lived on ahead; that his domain was called Ocute..." (beyond the Oconee River).

Up the East Bank of the Flint River

The army having caught up, "The chief (of Montezuma) gave DeSoto a guide and interpreter for that province. The governor ordered his Indians to be set free... He left a wooden cross raised very high in the middle of the public place (on Easter Sunday)...

Fort Valley Today "On (Monday, they) left (Montezuma) for Chisi (the main village of Chisi Province), it rained so much, and a small river (Beaver Creek, which they had crossed entering Montezuma) swelled in such a manner, that if they bad not made much haste to cross, all of the army would have been endangered. This day Indian men and women came forth (from today's Perry) to receive them. The women came clothed in white and they made fine appearance, and they gave to the Christians tortollas of corn and some bundles of spring onions exactly like those of Castile, as fat as the tip of the thumb and more. And that was a food which helped them much from then on; and they ate them with tortillas, roasted and stewed and raw, and it was a great aid to them because they are very good. The white clothing in which those Indian women came clothed are some blankets of both coarse and fine linen. They make the thread of them from the bark of the mulberry tree; not from the outside but rather of the middle; and they know how to process and spin and prepare it so well and weave it, that they make very pretty blankets.

"And they put one on from the waist down, and another tied by one side and the top placed upon the shoulder, like those of Bohemians or Egyptians who are in the habit of sometimes wandering through Spain. The thread is such that he who found himself there (with DeSoto, in the vanguard) certified to me that he saw the women spin it from the bark of the mulberry trees and make it good as the most precious thread from Portugal that the women in Spain procure in order to sew, and some more thin and even, and stronger. The mulberry trees are exactly like those of Spain, and as large and larger; but the leaf is softer and better for silk,Fort Valley Today and the mulberries better for eating and even larger than those from Spain, and the Spaniards also made good use of them many times, in order to sustain themselves."

"We spent five or six days in passing through this province (which spanned 70 miles from the Flint River to and across the Ocmulgee River then on to the Oconee River), which is called Chisi (Province), where we were well served by the Indians, from the little that they had."

"They arrived that day at a town of a chief subject to Ichisi, a pretty town and with plenty of food, and the chief gave them willingly of what he had, and they rested there on Tuesday...

Ocmulgee River"...and then on Wednesday, the last day of March, the Governor and his army departed, and they arrived at the Great River (the Ocmulgee just below Warner Robins, photo at left) where they (the Indians) had many canoes in which they crossed very well and arrived at the town of the Lord, who was one-eyed, and he gave them very good food and fifteen Indians to carry the burdens." What DeSoto's Navigators May Have Thought

[DeSoto's navigators reasoned that this "Great River," the Ocmulgee, was the Peace River which flows into Charlotte Harbor, their port of entry in Florida. After all, on their way up the Gulf Coast they had encountered only two other large rivers: the Suwannee and the Apalachicola. When they departed Florida from Marianna, headed northeast, they crossed two big rivers, the Chattahoochee and the Flint Rivers which, they figured, were the Apalachicola and the Suwannee Rivers, respectively. The next great river they would logically encounter would be, according to their logic, the Peace River, Gulf Coast Florida's other "Great River." The Gulf of Mexico, in their eyes, was the southern east-west shoreline of this "Island" of North America.]

Ichisi Province, Georgia"They were there Thursday, the first of April, and they placed a cross on the mound of his town and informed them through the interpreter of the sanctity of the cross, and they received it and appeared to adore it with much devotion... Friday, the second day of the month of April, this army departed from there and slept in the open (beyond the high hills five miles beyond Jeffersonville), and the next day they arrived at a good river (the Oconee, Ocute Province's boundary) and found deserted huts, and messengers arrived from Altamaha (who lived across the river at today's Oconee) and led them to a town (Toomsboro) where they found an abundance of food, and a messenger from Altamaha (the chief beyond the river) came with a present, and the following day they brought many canoes and the army crossed (the Oconee River) very well..." into Altamaha with their pigs, horses and supplies into today's Oconee.

Another Chronicler says, "Here we found a river (the Oconee River) that did not flow to the south like the others that we crossed. It flowed east, to the sea where the lawyer Ayllon had come (the Atlantic Ocean, up the coast of which their kinsman, a wealthy judge named Ayllon, had been shipwrecked the decade before they left Spain), and because of this we gave much more credit to what the Indian boy (Perico) told us, and we believed all of his lies. This province was well populated with Indians and they all served us (freeing our scouts, who were otherwise engaged patrolling for Indian ambush, to explore beyond the range of immediate army reinforcement). We questioned the Indians about the province we were searching for (Eupaha, according to the Indian boy), which was called by them Cofitachique (Columbia, South Carolina), and they told us that it was not possible to go there; there was neither road nor anything to eat on the way, and we would all die of hunger."

Ocute Province, Georgia

"From there the governor sent a message summoning the chief Camumo (of Ocute Province, scouts probably found him at today's Harrison, 13 miles east of Oconee), and they said that he ate and slept and walked continually armed, that he never took off his weapons, because he was on the frontier of another chief called Cofitachequi, his enemy, and that he would not come without weapons, and the governor replied and said that he should come as he might wish. And he came and the governor gave him a large feather colored with silver, and the chief took it very happily and said "You are from heaven, and this your feather that you gave me, I can eat with it, I will go forth to war with it; I will sleep with my wife with it."

Indians with tails"This chief was subject to a great chief who is called Ocute, and he asked the governor to whom he had to give tribute to in the future, if he should give it to the governor or to Ocute... and he (DeSoto) responded that he held Ocute as a brother, that he should give Ocute his tribute until the governor should command otherwise. From there the governor sent messengers to Ocute, and he came there, and the governor gave him a hat of yellow satin, and a shirt, and a feather, and he placed a cross there in Altamaha (on the second Wednesday after Easter - NEW MOON - April 7th), and it was well received."

"The next day, the eighth of April, the Governor departed from there with his army, and he took Ocute with him, and they went to sleep at some huts (today's Tennille), and on Friday they arrived at the town of Ocute (today's Davisboro having bypassed today's Sandersville - probably Ocute's real headquarters). And the Governor got angry with him, and he (Ocute) trembled with fear; and after that a great number of Indians came with supplies (probably from Sandersville), and they gave the Christians as many Indian burden bearers as they wished, and a cross was placed, and they appeared to receive it with as much devotion and adored it on their knees, as they saw the Christians do."

Today's Wild Georgia Swine "So that they (the Natives) would remember them, the governor gave them, among other presents, two swine, male and female, for breeding. He had done the same for the chief of Altapaha and the lords of the other provinces who had come out peacefully and made friends with the Spaniards. Though hitherto we have not mentioned that we brought these animals with us, it is true that DeSoto brought more than three hundred head, male and female, which multiplied greatly and were exceedingly useful in the great necessities that our Castilians suffered in this discovery. If (by now) the Indians have not destroyed them, it is probable that... there are many of them there today (when this report was published in 1609), for besides those the governor gave to the friendly chiefs, many others were lost along the roads, though they were well and carefully guarded. While on the march one of the companies of cavalry (horsemen) was assigned to herd and guard them." Feral pigs, which we call "wild pigs," of which there are tens-of-thousands in today's Georgia, are descendant from DeSoto's.

[Garcilaso de la Vega, the "Inca," the only DeSoto chronicler who has not commented so far in this particular narrative, says at this point] "We have not mentioned hitherto a piece of artillery the governor brought along with his army... the governor, having seen that (a cannon) served for nothing except a burden and annoyance, requiring men to care for it and pack mules to transport it, decided to leave it with the chief (of) Cofa (Ocute) to keep... So that he might see (the importance of) what he (DeSoto) was leaving for him, the governor ordered the piece aimed from the house of the chief toward a large and very beautiful live-oak tree that was outside the village, and he knocked it down entirely with two shots, at which the chief and his Indians were amazed."

A Troop of Natives"The Chief sent him (DeSoto) two thousand Indians bearing gifts, namely rabbits, partridges, corn bread, two hens, and many dogs (probably from Sandersville), which are esteemed among the Christians as if they were fat sheep because there was a great lack of meat and salt. Of this there was so much need and lack in many places and on many occasions that if a man fell sick, there was nothing with which to make him well; and he would waste away of an illness which could have been easily cured in any other place, until nothing but his bones were left and he would die from pure weakness, some saying: "If I had a bit of meat or some lumps of salt, I should not die."

"The Indians do not lack for meat; for they kill many deer, hens, rabbits, and other game with their arrows. In this they have great skill, which the Christians do not have; and even if they had it, they had no time for it, for most of the time they were on the march, and they did not dare to turn aside from the paths (which were Indian trails between Indian villages). And because they lacked meat so badly, when the six hundred men with DeSoto arrived at any town and found twenty or thirty dogs, he who could get one and who killed it thought he was not a little agile. And if he who killed one did not send his captain a quarter, the latter, if he learned of it... gave him to understand it in the watches or in any other matter of worth that arose with which he could annoy him. On Monday, April 12, the governor left Ocute, the Chief having given him four hundred tamemes, that is, Indians for carrying."

"...and they gave us some of the foods they had and told us that if we wished to go make war on the lady of Cofitachiqui, they would give us all that we might want for our journey. They told us that there was no road by which to go, since they had no dealings with one another because they were at war; sometimes when they came to make war on one another, they passed through hidden and secret places where they would not be detected... Having seen our determination, they gave us eight hundred Indians to carry our food and cloths, and other Indians to guide us; we headed straight east and traveled for three days. The Indian (boy named Perico) who had deceived us told us that in three days he would get us there."

"and (we) arrived at Cofaqui (brother of Ocute, at today's Louisville), and the principal Indians came with gifts... This Chief Cofaqui was an old man, full-bearded..."

Cofaqui - Louisville
"By the way that they were going, which proved to be the narrowest point of the province of Cofaqui..." between the Ogeechee River and Brier Creek, "they left it in two daily journeys..."

They "...reached a province of an Indian lord called Patofa (subject of Ocute, as they approached today's Waynesboro near Brier Creek), who, since he was at peace with the lord of Ocute and the other lords round him, he had heard of the governor some days before and desired to see him..."

"This land, from that of the first peaceful chief to the province of Patofa - a distance of fifty leagues (132 miles from Montezuma to Waynesboro, a precise measure) - is a rich land, beautiful, fertile, well watered, and with fine fields along the rivers..."

At Patofa, the Indian boy named Perico (who believed he was on the road to Augusta) said, "...that four day's journey thence toward the rising sun (east-north-east) was the province of which he spoke (it would be found 80 miles, straight line distance, from there). The Indians of Patofa said that they knew of no settlement in that direction, but that toward the northwest they knew a province called Coza (which others would call "Coosa"), a well provisioned land and of very large villages (which DeSoto would encounter months later in North Georgia). The chief told the governor that if he wished to go thither (toward the northwest), he would furnish him service of a guide and Indians to carry (the burdens); and if (DeSoto wanted to go) in the direction indicated by the youth (east-north-east) he would also give him all those he needed..."

Chief Ocute probably assigned the leadership of his native army with DeSoto to Chief Patofa, given that Chief Ocute, who was never mentioned again, knew DeSoto was on the wrong track to his destination and would probably kill him when the wayward Spaniards discovered that within days. Patofa would lead the combined native army until DeSoto released them, unharmed, several weeks later.

"On Thursday, the fifteenth of that month, Perico, the Indian boy who had been their guide since Apalache (above Panama City, Florida), began to lose his bearings, because now he did not know any more of the land, and he made himself out to be possessed (he was 22 miles south of the road he should have been on - which ran thru Augusta - from which their destination would have been only 60 miles)... they had to take (other Indian) guides... in order to go to Cofitachequi, across an uninhabited region of nine or ten days' journey."

Rangel, DeSoto's secretary, says here, "Many times I am amazed by the gambling spirit, or tenacity or pertinacity, or perhaps I should say constancy, because it gives better impression of the way these deceived conquistadors went on from one difficulty to another, and from another to yet a worse one, and from one danger to others and others, here losing a comrade and there three and over there more, and going from bad to worse, without learning their lesson. Oh marvelous God, what blindness and rapture under such an uncertain greed and such vain preaching as that which Hernando de Soto was able to tell those deluded soldiers that he led to a land where he had never been... because he knew nothing of the islands of the land to the North (today's America), knowing only the method of government of... Nicaragua, and of Peru, which was another manner of dealing with the Indians; and he thought that experience from there sufficed to know how to govern here on the coast of the North, and he deluded himself, as this history will relate..."

Map - The Savannah River at DeSoto's Crossing Place Elvas says, "He (DeSoto) took corn (from Patofa) for four days and marched (Biedma says, "straight to the east...") for six days along a path which gradually grew narrower (in South Carolina) until it was lost. He (first) marched in the direction where the youth guided him and crossed two rivers by fording, each of which was two crossbow-shots (100 yards) wide..." at the Savannah River's broad flats above Shell Bluff Landing, at today's South Carolina border, 22 miles below Augusta. The river was flooded by Appalachian Mountain Spring thaw.

Rangel says of this trip, "Friday, the sixteenth of the month, the Governor and his people spent the night at a creek (just above Waynesboro along their way to the Savannah River's broad flats) then crossed an extremely large river, divided into branches, and broader than a long shot of a crossbow, and it had many bad fords of many flat stones, and it came up to the stirrups, and in places up to the saddle pads. The current was very strong, and there was not a man on horseback who dared to take a foot soldier on the river. The foot soldiers passed across further upstream on the river, through very deep water... They made a string of thirty or forty men tied one to another, and thus they crossed, the ones holding themselves to the others; and although some were in much danger, thanks to God not one drowned, because they aided them with the horses, and gave them the butt of their lance or the tail of their horse, and thus all came forth and slept in the forest." ...in today's South Carolina.

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